Florida Keys Insider Guide for First-Time Visitors

First time in the Keys? The biggest mistake is treating the Overseas Highway as a drive to Key West. Every stretch has its own pace, and the best stops are easy to miss at 45 miles an hour. Here is a short run down the road, top to bottom, using places we have already written up in the guide.

Key Largo

Key Largo is the first island you hit, and most people blow straight through it. Slow down here.

• John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park at mile marker 102.5 was the first undersea park in the United States. You can snorkel or dive the reef, take a glass-bottom boat if you would rather stay dry, or rent a kayak for the mangrove trails.
• Original Mrs. Mac's Kitchen has been open since 1976 and is the longest-running restaurant in Key Largo. There are two locations a short way apart, so check which one you are heading to. Get the key lime pie.
• Snappers Oceanfront Restaurant & Bar is seafood, live music and a beach area on the water. Time it for sunset.

Islamorada

• Robbie's of Islamorada at mile marker 77.5 is where you feed the tarpon off the dock. It is touristy and nobody minds, because it is also genuinely fun.
• Hungry Tarpon sits right there at Robbie's. It opens at 6:30 AM, and an early breakfast is the way to get a waterfront table without the weekend wait. If you fished that morning, they will cook your catch for lunch or dinner.
• Mangrove Mike's Cafe is a family-owned breakfast and lunch spot that has been going since 1998, with breakfast served all day.
• Anne's Beach at mile marker 73.5 has a 1,300-foot boardwalk through the mangroves and shallow water you can wade. Parking is in two lots along US-1.

Marathon

Marathon is the middle of the Keys, and it is quieter than people expect.

• Sombrero Beach is a city beach with white sand, calm shallow water, pavilions with grills and a playground. It is also a sea turtle nesting site, so parts can close in season.
• Curry Hammock State Park, just outside Marathon, is the pick if you want to paddle, walk the nature trails or camp on the ocean.
• Sunset Grille & Raw Bar sits at the foot of the Seven Mile Bridge on Knights Key and is the obvious sunset stop before you cross.
• Food for Thought is a natural foods store and cafe with breakfast, lunch, smoothies and plenty of vegan and gluten-free options.

Key West and Stock Island

Duval Street is worth one walk. Our Key West picks are one bridge back on Stock Island, where the working marinas are.

• Hogfish Bar & Grill is an open-air dockside spot at Safe Harbor Marina. Order the Killer Hogfish Sandwich on Cuban bread and eat it at the rail. They do not take reservations, so weekday lunch or happy hour (4 to 6 PM) beats a weekend dinner.
• Roostica Wood-Fire Pizzeria is a family-run Neapolitan pizzeria in an old warehouse. On weekends they open at 4 PM, so do not plan a Saturday lunch there.
• Croissants de France has its Stock Island location just outside the hustle. Go for croissants, quiche and the Nutella beignet.

For more on eating like a local at the bottom of the Keys, see where locals eat in Key West.

A few things first-timers learn fast

• Mile markers are how everyone gives directions. MM 0 is Key West, and the numbers go up as you head north.
• The Overseas Highway is mostly two lanes, so build in extra time between stops.
• Plan sunsets around where you will be. Key Largo, the Seven Mile Bridge and the Stock Island docks all do it well.
• The popular spots get busy on weekends. An early start fixes most of that.